Jeonju

This weekend Ashley, Mikel, Dani and I went to Jeonju for a cultural experience. We decided to do a tour rather than venture out on our own because it was only 40,000W for the entire weekend. After a longer than expected bus ride (due to traffic) we arrived in Jeonju around noon. Let me start off by saying that this weekend was absolutely gorgeous. Clear blue skies, sunshine and temperatures in the low to mid 70s. Once we arrived we climbed a bit of a steep trail and ended up overlooking the Hannok (traditional Korean) Villages. We were greeted by beautiful cherry blossom trees and a gaggle of volunteer guides. The guides helped us through the activities of the day, shared meals with us and practiced their English. Most of them were college students, but a few elementary students joined the bunch. One girl in particular, Jenna, took a keen liking to me and we ended up being buddies by the end of the day.

After we took in the view and snapped photos of the cherry blossoms we headed to our cooking class. We learned how to make traditional Jeonju bibimbap, which is a bit different from bibimbap in other parts of Korea and Jeonju claims to be the birthplace of the mixed rice and vegetable dish. We watched our instructor first and then we had a go of it. It was quite easy, but I realized a need for better chopping skills. I never knew how labor intensive bibimbap is, but the end result is quite tasty. We had quite a good time making our dishes and enjoying the fruits of our labor. After lunch we got a glimpse at a traditional wedding ceremony and the got the chance to walk around part of the village. Once our leisure time was finished we headed to Korean etiquette class where we got to dress up in traditional Korean hanboks. We learned that you should wrap it clockwise otherwise it could mean that you are a prostitute. We also learned the correct hairstyles for married and unmarried women. After dressing, we learned the proper bowing technique while wearing a hanbok and the two different bows used. When bowing to elders a more formal bow is used, but when bowing to peers the bow is modified a bit. I found this to be very interesting, but overall, the bibimbap making experience was the best! Once dinner rolled around we were treated to bean sprout and rice soup, it was quite delicious, but not as filling as we had hoped. After dinner we settled into our rooms in a traditional Hannok Village and we had a bit of free time before the musical performance. Once night fell we were treated to traditional Korean music courtesy of stringed instruments, a flute and a beautiful vocal performance. At intermission, we had green tea, rice cakes and various Korean snacks. It was a great way to spend an evening.

Sunday was a bit shorter, but we still managed to pack a lot of things into a short amount of time. We started the morning at a wine museum and then headed to a few souvenir shops. Jeonju is famous for it's paper products and I was tempted to buy a ton of paper, but refrained. After the shops we played a few games (tossing sticks into a bucket and the hoop thing where you have to keep it going without it falling over). At 11, we were escorted to a tea tent and shown how to properly prepare tea and how to behave during a ceremony. Mikel took the lead after our hostess showed us the ropes. The tea itself was delicious, but the experience was amazing. After we had tea we made flower rice cakes. Again, we had a gracious hostess who let me turn the second batch in the pan. These cakes are made from rice powder mixed with water, to create a dough, and then they are pan fried in sunflower oil. We added fresh flowers while they were frying and then they were dipped into a simple syrup. The end result was amazing! After this we had lunch (steamed pork, rice and a million side dishes) and then a few hours of free time which we used to check out a little arts and crafts market and enjoy the afternoon sun. This experience was truly the best I've had in a long time, possibly ever. I had the chance to partake in traditional Korean culture and I have never been so amazed by the people of Korea and Korea itself. I want to learn more and I feel like my last few months here are going to be jam packed with learning and more experiences.

Jinju Lantern Festival

Even Seoul is seemingly calm in the morning. Before the sun rises and cars and people fill the streets. The sun rising over the Han River reflects off it's calm surface. The countryside is a different calm. Clouds rolling off the hills meeting with the lifting fog from the golden rice paddies. It's hard to tell if I am trapped in a cloud or just the fog itself. The leaves are beginning to turn, faint hues of red and orange dot the hillsides. Farmers alone with their crops, I with my thoughts on this sparsely populated bus. The sun squinting my eyes illuminating the beauty of Korea.

Very early Saturday morning Megan, Loren and I got a bus bound for Jinju. Jinju is in the southeast part of Korea and the bus ride is about 4 hours. I love traveling by bus in Korea because it's cheap, relatively quick and very efficient. It also allows for views of the countryside and traditional life. We got to Jinju at 11am and walked toward the river where the Lantern Festival was taking place. We found a hotel room at the Versace Hotel and then set off to view the lanterns and find some lunch. We crossed the river on a floating bridge and found a food tent for some bibimbap and beer. A perfect lunch on the banks of the river under the clear blue sky.

Later, we wanted to check out the bullfighting and after catching a taxi and arriving at the bull ring we discovered that there would be no bullfighting on Saturday. Kind of sad, but we checked out the Jinju Fortress instead. The fortress had great views of the river and the lanterns floating on it. The day was very serene and calming and the weather was absolutely perfect. After checking out the fortress we went to a silk store to see the famous Jinju silk and then headed to MiniStop for an afternoon of soju and chatting along the roadside. Later, we took a nap and then headed to the night time festivities at the Lantern Festival.

The lanterns looked awesome lit up on the river and I wish my pictures had been better. The place was packed with people waiting for the firework show and just checking out the lanterns. All of the lanterns are made of silk and it's pretty impressive to see what people can do with a little silk and wire. We saw the Statue of Liberty, kite fliers, lotus blossoms, tigers, entire buildings made of silk. The fireworks started at 8 and lasted only about 20 minutes. However, it was possibly the best firework show I ever seen. Plus, right across the river from us, a fire broke out. It was highly entertaining. After fireworks we got samgyopsal (BBQ) and called it a night.

It was a great weekend with friends and I am so glad I have the opportunity to take weekend trips around Korea. It's so nice to get out of Seoul sometimes and breath fresh air and see how the rest of the country lives. I love it!

Here is a collage of pictures, more can be found on my Picasa page.

Damyang and Boseong

This past weekend I went to Damyang and Boseong with four other people. Two of the people, Kristin and Loren, I had met at the Spanish group two weeks ago. We were met in Damyang by Nate and Courtney, whom I had never met but they were awesome company. At 9:00 on Saturday morning Loren, Kristin and I got on a bus headed for Gwangju, the capital of Jeollanam-do province. We didn't spend much time in Gwangju because we were headed for Damyang and the bamboo forest. When we got to Damyang we found a place to stay for the night, left our backpacks and headed for the forest. It was a gorgeous day, nice weather and the bamboo forest was incredible. It was so nice to see nature again, we saw banana spiders all over and trees and amazing views of the surrounding mountains. After wandering around the forest for awhile it was time for some food and we had read about a place that served daetongbap (see left), rice cooked inside of a hollow bamboo stem and the rice takes on the subtle flavor of bamboo. It was very good and served with about 10 different banchan or side dishes. The lunch was very good and afterward we decided to walk around by the river and we found a serene sculpture park with frogs and flowers and people reading in a little pagoda-esque gazebo. I would have loved to curl up with my latest read (Me Talk Pretty One Day by David Sedaris), but I didn't have it with me and time didn't necessarily allow. The walk along the river became a peaceful stroll and it sparkled in the diminishing sunlight. We found a place to walk across the river on stones and saw a white heron (maybe a crane) and some geese or swans of some sort and it became apparent to me that Korea is a beautiful country. Outside of the hustle and bustle of Seoul lies an abundant source of traditional Korea, an untouched mecca of language, food and housing. No sky high towers or foreigners (I believe we were the only 5 in town that night) and a sense of the way things used to be and will always be.

After our river walk, we headed back to our love motel (don't worry, it's not as sketchy as it sounds) and chilled for a little while before deciding on dinner. We decided to have samgyopsal (삼겹살), a thick cut pork, not unlike bacon, that you grill right at the table along with garlic, mushrooms, onions and shrimp (I've been told shrimp isn't necessarily the norm). We also threw some kimchi (김치) on the grill. After it's all cooked the pork is placed in lettuce and all the grill stuff is added plus spicy bean paste and an array of other things. Each wrap can be the same or different. I opted for the different option, but it was very tasty and the first time I've had bacon in probably 18 years, I have been missing out. To top the meal off we also had bamboo soju to commemorate the bamboo forest and when that went dry we had normal soju.

On Sunday, we went boarded a bus to Boseong where the green tea plantations are. The drive there was as gorgeous as I had hoped. Winding roads through rural areas, shallow river beds and sun soaked farms. Everything was so green and fresh and the random chilies drying in the middle of the road made for interesting attractions. Boseong itself was marvelous. The green tea fields were high up on the side of the mountain and the trek was well worth the final result. The view was amazing and it smelled wonderful. I took many pictures, but none of them can do an actual trip any justice. It was an amazing sight. The fields themselves were flanked by Cyprus trees and what I believe were bonsai trees. The whole atmosphere was peaceful and we topped it off with a lunch of bibimbap (비빔밥) with green tea rice (nokcha bibimbap). After a day of bus trips and green tea amazement, it was time to board one more bus back to Gwangju and then another back to Seoul.

I think I could have stayed in Boseong for a few weeks, maybe a few months, but not permanently. As much as I love nature and a great view and amazing experiences, I have grown quite fond of Seoul. I proudly call my apartment home and I see Seoul as my city. Whether in my neighborhood or traveling around, Seoul is an adventure waiting to happen. The weekend trip was nice, to be free of smog and thousands of cars and funky smells made me appreciate the beauty of this country and the world, which is exactly why I embarked upon this journey in the first place. People are simple outside of Seoul, English isn't spoken in the small towns, but we ran into plenty of kind, Korean people who helped us find our way. Hand gestures and body language spoke volumes this weekend and a simple smile can go a long way. I am falling in love with this country more and more everyday and now I know why Korea is truly sparkling.

Weekend and Holiday Plans

This weekend was pretty awesome. I met up with a few people from the Spanish group from the previous weekend and we checked out a Latin American art exhibit at Deoksugung Palace. The exhibit was awesome. Pretty small collection, but it showcased some of Frida Kahlo's early works and a few Diego Rivera's. Some of my favorite works were from Fernando Botero and Wifredo Lam. After seeing this collection I wanted to hop on a plane to Argentina (where most of the collection hailed from). I will be going back there at least once more before it leaves in November.
The palace itself was small and relatively untouched. The colors were faded, but I liked that. It showed the palace as it should be after thousands of years. The area surrounding the palace is City Hall and the location of the beef protests right before I arrived in Seoul. It also where I happened upon the Chili Festival two weekends ago. It is quite beautiful and a 15 minute walk down the street lands you at Gyeonbokgung Palace and the area surrounding Cheonggye Stream.

We found a place for lunch and I had the best bibimbap ever! It was a cheese, vegetable and meat deal that tasted very similar to Mexican food. It was fantastic. The place was aptly named Bibimbap and I wish I remembered how to get there from the subway, but I know I could get there if I walk around again.

On the way home, on the subway, a group of school girls got on. After they talked to the most adorable baby they said hello to me and asked if they could talk with me. Of course I said yes and they asked me bunch of questions and I them and we had a short little conversation in English. The girl who did the most talking (while her friends giggled) even thanked me for letting her talk to me. Just another day in Korea.

After I got back from the exhibit, I chilled for a bit and then I went to COEX to meet up with another friend from Spanish group. We ate dinner at On the Border so I got yet another Spanish food fix. This time I had a chicken taco, rice, black beans and 2 cheese and chicken empanadas, and a margarita of course. No pictures of that, but it was pretty tasty, a bit more expensive than Korean food, but I suppose its ok to eat Western once every 2 months (not including McDonald's, I consider that global food...haha). Anyway, I didn't do much on Sunday besides go to the gym for the first time and it was awesome! I went again tonight after work and I am going to make this part of my daily routine. Tonight after working out I went to the restaurant in the bottom of my building for madu rameyon (ramen noodles with madu dumplings) it was pretty tasty. I mean I know I love mandu and rameyon is delicious as well so put the two together and you've got a winning combination.

In other news, I think I have my Christmas holiday plans all figured out. I just need to check on a few things and buy tickets/make a lodging reservation. Otherwise its looking like Indonesia, a few days with Molly who is teaching in Bandung and then a few days on my own on the beaches of Bali. I had thought about Beijing, but the tourist visa stuff is more of a hassle than I want to deal with right now and it's cheaper to do one country. I will make it to Beijing (and other parts of China) before I leave Korea, but the more I thought about a Christmas/New Year's vacation the more I wanted to be warm and it'll be about the same temperature in Beijing as Seoul. Right now I would be happy with cold, but come December, I'll probably want a break and a tan.

Busan and Bibimbap

I have tomorrow off and I am going to Busan. I booked my KTX tickets this afternoon and as of right now I don't have a place to stay. However, I was informed that this won't be a problem and I have a few places I will check out as soon as I get there. I plan to find a place to stay, chill on the beach and eat some delicious food for the entirety of Friday. Saturday I'll probably check out some of the sights and sounds of Busan and if time allows, chill on the beach. I leave at noon on Sunday because I wanted to back in Seoul at a reasonable time. The train only takes 3 hours, but I still wanted some time at home before work on Monday. Part of me is worried about not having a place to stay, but I'll figure it out. I can always try my Korean and ask around.

Last night I went to dinner with Lindsay and Jesse and since they paid last time, I treated. Only 11,000W for the three of us, you can't get too much better than that. I had bibimbap and it was really good, in fact I went back tonight for dinner. It was different tonight, spicier and a couple of different vegetables, but still good. The first picture is what it looks like before you mix it all together. It has egg, seaweed, lettuce, bean sprouts and two things I don't know. Under all of that is red pepper paste, where it gets its spice, and rice. Of all the things I've had in Korea so far, I think this is my favorite. It tastes good, not excellent, but good and it's cheap. Tonight I paid 4,000W for dinner. It really is cheaper to eat out, if you choose wisely and stick to Korean restaurants, than it is to buy food at the grocery store. If I wanted to make bibimbap I would probably have to spend twice as much at the grocery than at a restaurant. When AT (my recruiter) told me people live on about $300 a month and eat out every meal (and pay bills) I thought I could do better than that if I buy stuff and cook at home, not true at all. While I haven't come close to spending that much money, I can see how it could be done. I actually do have some bills to pay, about $100, but I have yet to do so. It doesn't seem to be a big deal at this point as I've received the same bill twice with no late fee attached. Don't worry, they will be paid next week. Anyway, the second picture is the bibimbap after it has been mixed together and ready to eat.